Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

Travel Tales Excerpt – Christmas Curry in Koblenz

The fortress itself was a vast maze of thick walls, deep bunkers, and kill zones. Its design was to protect the riverway below and protect its soldiers. The mountain upon which it sat towered over Koblenz. Its walls were mostly brick with large iron doors. A single road led to the fortress. Its predecessor had fallen after a yearlong siege, so the Prussian government concentrated on defense and the ability to store supplies that could keep the defender well-fed and armed.

The infirmary was nothing special because the main fortress was not expected to see battle. It was supported by a network of smaller fortresses and castles that lined the banks of the Rhine and Moselle. The infirmary had room for 200 beds, and most were unoccupied. There was a mild influenza spreading across Europe and the US, but it was not related to the larger pandemic that arose in 1918. However, there were a few patients who displayed influenza symptoms in November 1917. The chief doctor was a man in his seventies named Dr. Schenkendorf, whose gate and posture made him look like he was in his eighties. He barely glanced at the transfer orders, mumbled a welcome, and directed her to store her belongings in the nursing quarters. His German was easy to understand, and that bolstered her confidence.

– End Excerpt

The Ehrenbreitstein Fortress across the river from Koblenz, Germany, was my first site in the area. It has a commanding view of the Rhine and Moselle rivers and provides a complete view of Koblenz and its notable features. Our tour group was transported there by bus from the river ship. At the fort, tour guides dressed in period attire, and they theatrically conducted the tour. They start our tour by informing us that we have traveled back to the first days of the fort and are conducting a military inspection.

We enter the fort from the eastern side entrance, which does not have a river view. The entrance is constructed with large red masonry, and the walls are made of cement and tan stone with dark stains from the years. After passing through the entrance, we are in a large courtyard with a small model of the fort. They informed us that this area was the first killing box designed to trap enemies breaching the doors and that the fort’s paths
formed mazes and small killing fields. These areas of the fort are impressive and intimidating. The thick walls can create pockets of echoes that are disorientating.
Eventually, we went through another gate in a large courtyard with several ornate buildings. These buildings housed the soldiers and the officers and had other services like a hospital, a banquet hall, and ammunition storage. There are even some trees in the courtyard. The courtyard gives a commanding view of Koblenz. This ended our tour, and we could wander the area. A cable car transported us back across the river where we could return to the ship.
To me, this fort seemed to have more history than what our guide had given. It never saw a battle, yet its designers made it unbreakable. As I was researching the history of Koblenz, I learned that it served some importance during and after World War I. The isolation of the fort makes it a setting for the counterfeiting story and a romantic introduction.